The truth is more important than the facts. — Frank Lloyd Wright

travel diary — day 270

day 266 — the pre­vi­ous day i’d seen some signs advert­ising the ‘medewi surf comp’ which was a local event organ­ised by a few expats. the whole idea was to pro­mote surf­ing and improve the medewi com­munity. after break­fast, i found the organ­isers and offered to pho­to­graph the day for them. they jumped at the offer and i spent the day in the sun tak­ing pho­tos of local kids rid­ing long left hand breaks.

i got sun­burned to all shit and in the after­noon i took a break after the finals. there was a party and present­a­tion in the even­ing, so i returned for that. i got free food (in return for my pho­tos) and took pic­tures of the present­a­tion. then they star­ted dan­cing and singing, drink­ing and hav­ing fun. i’d had a few beers, and since the fest­iv­it­ies were wind­ing down, i decided to go and get some sleep.

day 267 — i met alex, one of the surf comp organ­isers, early and gave him all the pho­tos. i took around 400 pix in all and he was happy with the res­ults. i returned to my hotel, checked out and got a bemo to gili­ma­nuk. gili­ma­nuk is the port town where fer­ries make the jump to java. i got on the ferry and enjoyed the ride over to the main island. i got a bus to pro­bol­inggo which took forever to arrive. i got in really late and had to stay in a hotel near the bus ter­minal. a local tout had tried to con­vince me to spend $15 for a private taxi to bromo (my des­tin­a­tion) which annoyed me, mostly because i was so tired.

after check­ing in i real­ised i was hungry and ven­tured off to find some food. there was a small res­taur­ant nearby which was still open. they sold goat kebabs (10 sticks for $1) and some rice. the food was good and i got into a cov­er­sa­tion with the young guy who was run­ning the place. he was obsessed with west­ern women and wanted my advice on how to get a west­ern woman to have sex with him. i lec­tured him that women don’t like to be treated as sex objects, which he pretty much ignored, so i just advised him to treat them nicely, have good man­ners and try to be inter­est­ing … then he might get lucky. the con­ver­sa­tion had lim­ited interest to me, so i headed back to the hotel to get some sleep. when i returned i real­ised that java time is an hour earlier than bali.

day 268 — i had a big break­fast and while i was eat­ing i real­ised that java was an hour earlier than bali. so i had picked up an extra hour to get to bromo. bromo was a moun­tain range with a num­ber of act­ive vol­ca­noes. i got a bemo to bromo and dur­ing the trip we picked up three pol­ish trav­el­ers. the four of us got to talk­ing and the pol­ish guy was not happy about the cost of the bemo up the moun­tain. the price was $2.50, which he thought was too much, and when we arrived he refused to pay the full price. the two pol­ish girls with him paid, i paid (even though i agreed the price was a little steep), and the pol­ish guy con­tin­ued to refuse. he offered to pay less and a fight broke out between he and the bemo drivers. i walked away to check out the hotels and was dis­ap­poin­ted to find that the hotels were so expens­ive. a pol­ish girl had found a cheap homestay around the corner and that looked like our best bet.

dur­ing all this, the pol­ish guy was still refus­ing to pay the full price. i’d returned to see what was hap­pen­ing. one of the bemo drivers was angry and took out a metal tyre iron and was threat­en­ing the pol­ish guy. i stepped in and stood straight in the bemo driver’s face. he backed down and another local guy took the tyre iron from him. i stepped out of the way and let them fin­ish their fight (i didn’t care about the fight, as long as it was fair … and unarmed! lol). two guys tried to drag the pol­ish tour­ist to the police sta­tion. there was scuff­ling and even­tu­ally a local, who spoke good eng­lish, inter­vened and nego­ti­ated a truce. the bemo drivers, real­ising they couldn’t win, accep­ted a lower amount and stomped off huffily.

the three pol­ish trav­el­ers were going to the homestay and i offered to share a room with the beli­ger­ent pol­ish guy. we got the room cheap and halved the price (which worked out well).

i dumped my stuff and wandered off to find some food. after lunch i read my book and had a small nap, plan­ning to avoid the heat of the day. when i woke up it was mid-afternoon so i grabbed my cam­era and made the trek to cem­ero lawang, an act­ive vol­cano with a large open crator which spewed sul­phur into the sky all day. it was a long but easy walk there, down hill and across the flat plain between the vil­lage and the vol­cano, then up the stairs to the crator’s edge. i took some pho­tos, choked on a cloud of sul­phur when the wind changed dir­ec­tion, and star­ted the walk back. the last part of the return walk was the hard­est, since it was all uphill to the township.

i had a small wash and met up with the pol­ish group. we had din­ner together over­look­ing the moun­tains and were treated to a spec­tac­u­lar sun­set. i was a bit dis­ap­poin­ted that i hadn’t brought my cam­era, but i enjoyed the sun­set any­way. we bought some beer after din­ner and sat out­side our rooms to chat and share travel stor­ies.

day 269
— the pol­ish group planned to wake up at 4am, hike up the hill to a lookout point and watch sun­rise. i agreed to join them and we got going at about 4.15. we walked briskly towards the lookout point and i real­ised that we were never going to make it in time. the sun had already star­ted rising (it was light, but the sun hadn’t reached the hori­zon yet) and the hill was very, very high and steep.

about half way, the sun was peak­ing above the clouds. i real­ised that i’d never make it to the top of the hill to get pho­tos, so i stopped at an out­crop which had a decent view. i took some pho­tos and watched the sun come up. the other three con­tin­ued up the hill. i don’t know if they actu­ally made it or not.

i enjoyed the sun­rise and i could feel the heat creep­ing in quickly, so i headed back down to the vil­lage. i packed my bag, left some money on the bed so that the pol­ish guy could pay for the room, and headed off. in the main street i had a fant­astic buf­fet break­fast for $2.50 and then got a bemo back down the hill to probolinggo.

on the bemo i met a couple of indone­sian tour­ists and we got to talk­ing. i got to the bus ter­minal and said good­bye to the indone­sians. i jumped on a bus to sura­baya and then got another bus to jog­jakarta. buses in java were slow and i arrived in jog­jakarta late. i grabbed a cycle trishaw to the hotel, checked in and crashed.

day 270 — in the morn­ing, after break­fast, i was told that my room had been pre­b­ooked and that i couldn’t stay. curs­ing under my breath, i packed and walked around the block to another hotel. the second hotel was much nicer and i had access to wifi from neigh­bour­ing hotels. that cheered me up. i checked my email, put some wash­ing in, and spent a few hours look­ing for tours to borobodur and prambanan.

i had a small nap, col­lec­ted my laun­dry (yes, they were that fast!!), had din­ner and slept.


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