I have the body of an eighteen year old. I keep it in the fridge. — Spike Milligan

travel diary — day 285

day 281 — today i spent the entire day on the bus. it was a long, bor­ing trip. i man­aged to get some sleep a few times and i wore ear plugs for most of the trip (to drown out the indo-pop that they insisted on play­ing at full volume). i talked to the bus driver and he assured me that the bus would reach padang at 11pm. that was four hours later than i was ori­gin­ally told. i grumbled about it to myself, but there was noth­ing else i could do. i was lucky to have a double seat to myself, so i made the most of it.

at 11pm we hadn’t arrived and the bus kept going. there were fewer and fewer pas­sen­gers, many get­ting off dur­ing stops.

day 282 — at 1am we reached our des­tin­a­tion. the bus stopped and every­one got off. i asked if this was padang and was told no, we were in bukit­tingi. i knew where bukit­tingi was, thanks to the lonely planet map, and real­ised that we’d gone at least two hours past padang.

i got angry at the bus com­pany and stomped off to find the police sta­tion. the bus com­pany was being beli­ger­ent and shit­ting me waaay too much. they’d refused to help and i told them to call the police. they just poin­ted down the street ‘that way to police’ … fuckers!

after walk­ing for about 15 minutes i real­ised i couldn’t see the police sta­tion, i wasn’t sure of the dir­ec­tion and i didn’t want to walk around bukit­tingi at 1am. i walked back and star­ted yelling at people. we were actu­ally at the bus company’s office, so they’d stayed there to sleep until the first run next morn­ing. they told me i could wait 5 hours for the next bus. i said no. i told them i wanted my money back and yelled some more. then they called a taxi, which i thought would take me to the police sta­tion. how­ever, they had decided that the taxi was to take me to padang (which i was sup­posed to pay for). i refused and yelled more. even­tu­ally they gave up and the taxi guy went to the police sta­tion and brought back two police officers with him.

we talked and the police were not very friendly. i told the cop that i wanted his name, which he scrawled down on the paper to try and make it illegible. he didn’t want to help and he didn’t want me know­ing his name to fol­low up with his super­i­ors. he asked what i wanted and i told them i wanted my money back. that’s all? he said … yes, i answered. then he asked me what i would do if i got my money, refer­ring to the fact that i was stuck at a bus sta­tion on the out­skirts of bukit­tingi, 2 hours drive from where i was sup­posed to be.

the cop was rude, so i told him he didn’t need to care what i did later. he said that was fine and after hey talked in indone­sian, and made some phone calls, i had my money back. the cop tried to shake my hand, which i rejec­ted cause he was an ass, and i walked out. i grabbed my bag and headed towards town.

the cops left and i walked away. half way down the road, the taxi driver stopped and asked if i wanted a lift. i real­ised it was quite far into town. i nego­ti­ated a ride and it was nearly 3am by the time i reached the main street. i walked around a few hotels, man­aged to find one that was open and crashed.

i woke up, had break­fast and checked out. the hotel was too expens­ive for my budget but had few choices at 3am. so i walked down the street and found a cheaper hotel. i put in some laun­dry, checked email, had lunch, read my book and relaxed. for din­ner i wandered around the street mar­kets that set up in the main street. after­wards it star­ted rain­ing, so i headed back to my room to update and backup files on the computer.

day 283 — i had break­fast and caught up on my chess games. then, i walked across town to find the bus stop so that i could get my ticket north. the walk was about 3km, but it felt good to stretch the legs. i walked back, look­ing around the mar­ket on the way.

it star­ted rain­ing, so i headed to a café with wifi and played chess. i lost a game due to a stu­pid mis­take, got angry and stomped off. i ended up at a store where i found some rope for my mos­quito net. i fin­ished my book and went to sleep.

day 284
— bukit­tingi has a zoo, which i decided to check out. it’s not very big, but it’s up the hill with a view over the town. i checked out the anim­als, includ­ing some birds which spoke indone­sian, and walked across the foot­bridge over the main street. it star­ted buck­et­ing down rain and i got drenched walk­ing home.

i made it back to the hotel, packed and checked out, had lunch and played chess (feel­ing like i’m in a bit of a slump). i got a cab to the bus sta­tion and got the overnight bus (which was 2 hours late) to parapat.

day 285 — i arrived in par­apat feel­ing tired from the bumpy ride and the com­plete lack of sleep. i headed to the har­bour and got the ferry across the lake. lake toba is a massive lake in north­ern sumatra. the lake is so big there’s an island in the middle. on the east coast is the tour­ist haven called tuk tuk.

i found a hotel and it didn’t take long for the local touts to start offer­ing me women.

i lazed around all after­noon, updat­ing my blog and drink­ing beer. i walked around the town in the even­ing and real­ised how small tuk tuk really was. i found an under­ground bar which was shit then found another bar (closer to my hotel) which was pretty good. i stayed quite a while, drink­ing local beer and talk­ing with the locals.


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