Who among us has not gazed at a painting of Jackson Pollack’s and thought: What a piece of crap? — Rob Long

travel diary — day 290

day 286 — being on the lake made me feel lazy (well, lazier than usual) and i decided to stay and do some read­ing. i sold my copy of ‘the beach’ (which was actu­ally very, very good) and snagged a copy of ‘amer­ican psy­cho’ by bret eaton elis. i’ve read it before, but it was actu­ally good to read it again.

after lunch i checked my email and walked around town. i bought a bus ticket to medan, a very cheap tshirt and returned to the hotel for din­ner. i had a few beers with a finnish tour­ist, packed and slept.

day 287 — i had a fant­astic banana pan­cake for break­fast and jumped on the ferry across the other side of the lake to par­apat. i got on a minibus which raced up the high­way to medan.

i reached town and headed to the bus ter­minal. my des­tin­a­tion was bukit lawang, where there’s an oran­gutan rehab­il­it­a­tion centre. when i got to the bus ter­minal i was told that i needed to go to a dif­fer­ent ter­minal. i hadn’t gone to the wrong ter­minal, i just hadn’t real­ised that after 3pm there are no more buses from that par­tic­u­lar ter­minal … stu­pid fuck­ing bus ter­min­als. what bizarre system.

i finally found a minibus but encountered a second prob­lem — i had no money. there was no atm any­where near the bus ter­minal (the nearest one was 5km away, in town). i had barely enough to cover the bus trip but i knew that there were no atms where i was headed — buket lawang was a small town with no banks.

i gave up. i’d had enough of buses and bull­shit trans­port prob­lems in indonesia.i got into a local bus and rode into the city centre. i looked around at the lim­ited hotel options, which were crap, and man­aged to find a nice hotel (which had just opened) not too far away.

my next pri­or­ity was food and an exit strategy. i had decided to leave indone­sia and make for malay­sia. i began look­ing for ferry ticket to get to geor­getown on the malay­sian pen­in­su­lar. i had no luck and dis­covered that the sched­ule had been changed. instead of daily fer­ries, they were only 3 times a week. the next one wasn’t for 2 more days. screw that! i checked my email, set my alarm and went to bed.

day 288 — i got a taxi to the air­port early in the morn­ing and, des­pite checkins being closed, talked my way onto a flight to kuala lum­pur. i had break­fast on the plane and when we reached kl i jumped on the bus into town.

i found myself in chin­atown. i looked around and found a hotel next to a cool reg­gae bar. i had lunch there, checked email and walked around chin­atown. then i got a taxi to a big shop­ping mall (B&B i think) where i got the nikon 85mm f1.8 that i’d been lust­ing for. i didn’t get a good price, but i didn’t care.

i returned to chin­atown keen to put the lens through its paces. i took some pho­tos and found a cool little hindu temple. des­pite being small, the temple was actu­ally the main hindu temple in malaysia.

in the even­ing i went to a street café for din­ner. i dis­covered that all the waiters there were burmese refugees … one of them even showed me his united nations refugee status card. pretty cool. we talked for a while and i told them that i’d been to burma. we had a great con­ver­sa­tion about it.

back in my hotel i figured out that the wifi from the reg­gae bar (next door) worked in my hotel room. sweet! i stayed up all night chat­ting online. i also tried to update my linux, which broke the install­a­tion, mak­ing me curse and swear a lot. i decided to fix it in the morning.

day 289 — i rein­stalled linux and headed to the myan­mar embassy across town. the asshole embassy worker was so dif­fi­cult. he kept say­ing that i’m a cam­era­man (because of my nikon) and that i can’t go to myan­mar because i’d changed my pass­port but didn’t have a copy of the old pass­port. the guy was being such a douche. even­tu­ally he let me sub­mit my pass­port and i paid the extra to get the visa in one day. i also had to get pho­to­graphs, which for­tu­nately, were avail­able in the embassy.

i walked an hour across town back to my hotel. i walked past the fam­ous pet­ro­nas twin towers which used to be the tallest build­ings in the world. i relaxed for a while, avoid­ing the heat of the day, and walked back to the embassy. i left early and i was very glad that i did. it star­ted pour­ing rain about half way there and i was stuck at a mcdon­alds for 30 minutes while i waited for the deluge to sub­side. i actu­ally wasn’t far from the embassy and debated get­ting a taxi the rest of the way … but for­tu­nately the rain stopped and i walked.

when i got to the myan­mar embassy i was told (by the same embassy asshole) that i “maybe” couldn’t get my pass­port back today. it “maybe” will take one week. i was angry, but of course, it’s impossible to get angry at an embassy offi­cial who is hold­ing your pass­port. then he said that he could get my pass­port if i give him some­thing. he wanted money. i’d already paid $45 for the visa, but he wanted a “tip”.

it cost me an extra $20 and i got my pass­port. mother­fucker!! i was pretty angry and stomped for a while back towards town. but my spir­its lif­ted quickly. it was pretty funny in ret­ro­spect and i had my visa to myan­mar. $65 was still less than i’d paid for visas to other coun­tries (india and bangladesh), so i was in good spir­its by the time i got back to chinatown.

i had din­ner at the same res­taur­ant so that i could tell the burmese guys about the black­mail­ing embassy bas­tard. they agreed that he was an ass.

day 290 — in the morn­ing i went to the post office to mail my extra lens to korea. on the way i bought christina a birth­day present and included it in the pack­age. the post office was a freak­ing labyrinth and it took me 15 minutes to find the inter­na­tional par­cel sec­tion. i sent the pack­age off and headed back into town. on the way i found an indian visa office and dis­covered (which i had already sus­pec­ted) that it would take five days to get the visa. i decided that i couldn’t get a visa in malay­sia because i didn’t want to wait that long. i decided to take a risk on get­ting the visa in myanmar.

i returned to the hotel, had a short sleep, and walked to the travel agent. i didn’t get a ticket, real­ising that the sched­ules were really retarded. i had din­ner and went back to the hotel.


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