Women should be obscene and not heard. — Groucho Marx

travel diary — day 299

day 296 — in the morn­ing i walked into town again. i checked a couple of travel agents and real­ised my plan (to fly to bangkok via brunei) was going to be too expens­ive. i gave up and walked back across town. on the way i found a korean res­taur­ant and decided to grab some kim­chi jig­gae for lunch. the jig­gae wasn’t very good, but the own­ers were extremely friendly. we talked for a while and after lunch i left.

near my hotel was the air asia office. i man­aged to get two tick­ets out of borneo, fly­ing to bangkok via kuala lum­pur. i relaxed at the hotel, had some beer and spent the even­ing online.

day 297
— i checked out, stor­ing my bag at the gues­t­house, and bought a ferry ticket to palau labuan. i had lunch and got the ferry across to the island. palau labuan is an inter­st­ing place and its import­ance in his­tory is sig­ni­fic­ant, if not over­looked. when japan sur­rendered to allied forces, the sur­render took place on palau labuan. there’s a memorial for the event, as well as another memorial for aus­tralian sol­diers killed in borneo.

i’m say­ing all this from tour­ist books, because i arrived late in the after­noon didn’t get time to reach either memorial.

i had din­ner and some beer in town. while i was eat­ing (and drink­ing) it struck me as odd that the beer and food was so cheap. it was a riddle i later solved.

day 298 — i got the morn­ing ferry to brunei and a minibus to the cap­ital badar seri begawan. i was a bit shitty at hav­ing to pay a B$20 visa fee (which i thought was free). brunei is small and so is it’s cap­ital, how­ever the city is very nice. it’s a clean, com­pact town set on the inter­sec­tion of a major trib­u­tary and a smal­ler river. i walked over to the cent­ral mosque and took some pho­tos. but i’d arrived at the begin­ning of mid­day pray­ers (and non-muslims aren’t allowed inside dur­ing prayer times) so i walked to the nearby shop­ping mall to buy lunch and check email.

i returned to the mosque and took some pho­tos out­side (not allowed to pho­to­graph inside). then walked around to the museum which was shut. i walked down to a small ferry port look­ing for boats to the nearby town of bangar. it’s fam­ous not because it’s an inter­est­ing place, but because the high speed boat ride there through nar­row canals is quite fun. how­ever i was too late to get a return trip. i could have got to bangar, but i wouldn’t have got back.

foiled again, i returned to my room for a shower and a rest. then i headed down to the river to watch the sun­set and eat a truck­load of chicken satay. to my com­plete dis­ap­point­ment i also dis­covered that brunei is a dry coun­try. being strict muslims, there’s no alco­hol in brunei … well, i’m sure there is, but i didn’t go seek­ing it out. so i had to wash my chicken satay down with coke.

i later returned to the cent­ral mosque to take some night pho­tos, after which i checked email and headed to bed.

day 299
— i checked out and got the fast boat to bangar. the trip was fun as the high powered boat jet­ted and sliced through the canals. i had break­fast at bangar and got the next boat back to bsb. i had to wait nearly two hours to get a bus back to the ferry, which meant that i couldn’t make it all the way back to kota kinabalu.

i got as far as palau labuan (again), checked into the same hotel (the woman called me daniel) and walked around town. i took some money out and did some duty free shop­ping. that’s when i dis­covered why my beer was so cheap on my pre­vi­ous visit … palau labuan is a tax free zone … there’s no tax on alco­hol and other lux­ury items.

i took advant­age and bought a big bottle of pre-mix dry mar­tini and a packet of 10 domin­ican repub­lic, hand rolled cigars. i had din­ner out­doors (fried chicken and gold label carls­berg) with a cigar. i returned to my room and spent the even­ing watch­ing movies through the haze of beer.


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