Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do it. — Mahatma Ghandi

travel diary — day 310

day 306 — new years eve — the day began with break­fast and chess online, after which i checked out and headed to the air­port. i flew to burma and met some other tour­ists (two koreans and a swiss guy) and we all agreed to share a taxi to town. i had a few errands to run, so after check­ing into the hotel, i called dhl (to find out about my camera’s bat­tery pack) and vis­ited the indian embassy to check on visa times and pro­ced­ures. on the way back to my hotel, i got 24 pass­port pho­tos for $1.50. sweet!!

story: cus­toms and the bat­tery pack.

dur­ing my first trip to burma, i dropped my cam­era on some con­crete and cracked the cam­era hous­ing. as a res­ult, the bat­tery com­part­ment sits loosely and the bat­tery doesn’t always con­nect. the cam­era is out of war­ranty and i don’t think there are many options for get­ting it fixed. hon­estly, i’m prob­ably going to have to replace the cam­era. i don’t want to spend that much money, so i came up with a solu­tion: use my bat­tery pack.

it was a simple, good idea. i emailed my friend in korea who is hold­ing some gear for me. he agreed to send the bat­tery pack via dhl to burma, where i could pick it up. a mutual friend in burma would receive the pack, hold it for me, and i could col­lect it upon my arrival.

and thus, a prob­lem arose. the bat­tery pack was val­ued at $60 (actu­ally it’s worth $150, but that’s irrel­ev­ant). burma’s cus­toms (ie gov­ern­ment) said that any item over $50 requires an import licence. this ridicu­lous rule is accom­pan­ied by the rule that any items that aren’t per­mit­ted will be auto­mat­ic­ally con­fis­cated, rather than being returned to sender, in accord­ance with inter­na­tional laws … i guess when your gov­ern­ment is a dic­tat­or­ship and you’re under eco­nomic sanc­tions, you don’t really have to care about any­thing else.

after a lot of wrangling, arguing, cajol­ing, talk­ing, email­ing and beg­ging, dhl agreed to try and help me get the bat­tery case. i was blam­ing dhl for the prob­lem (since they didn’t warn us that this would hap­pen) and even­tu­ally they got me to fill out some forms, which they took to cus­toms. they con­vinced cus­toms to release the bat­tery pack and i col­lec­ted it (after pay­ing $12 for “fees”).

i was glad to get the bat­tery pack, but really annoyed at how this could happen.

that even­ing i had din­ner with u myo aung, the friend who’d been try­ing to help me col­lect the bat­tery pack. i had also agreed to meet the koreans for beers on the bal­cony (to cel­eb­rate new years). how­ever, i fell asleep and missed new years in burma. damnit!

day 307 — new years day - i went to the indian embassy and sub­mit­ted my visa applic­a­tion. then i faxed the doc­u­ments required by dhl. i walked around town, had some ice cream and returned to my hotel. i bought a bus ticket to man­dalay, then spent a few hours drink­ing beer on the bal­cony, lying in a ham­mock, read­ing my zusak book.

later, i walked around the mar­kets and bought a pair of cheap sunglasses. i had noodles and sugar cane juce for din­ner. when i got back to the hotel, dhl called and told me that cus­toms had released my package.

day 308 — i had a big break­fast and walked to the dhl office to pick up my bat­tery pack. i walked around the flight agen­cies to fig­ure out an itin­er­ary for get­ting to india. i also went to the train sta­tion to get prices for trains from mandalay.

i packed, checked out, and got a taxi to the bus sta­tion (which is a long way out of town, for some stu­pid reason). i had din­ner, chat­ted with the loc­als (who rarely see for­eign­ers) and got the bus to mandalay.

the trip was really uncom­fort­able. it’s the middle of winter and they insisted on using the air con­di­tion­ing on the bus … at full blast. the music and shitty burmese dra­mas were also play­ing at full blast on the tv. i was freez­ing cold and at a break stop i con­vinced the driver to turn off the a/c.

day 309 — the bus was still cold and i man­aged to bor­row a blanket. i finally got some sleep and arrived in man­dalay early in the morn­ing. i got on the back of a bike for the cold trip into town, found my hotel, checked in, curled up in the warm blankets and got some more sleep.

i must have been tired, and i know i was on the verge of get­ting sick, since i slept all day. i had a hot shower and returned to bed, sleep­ing all night.

day 310 — i woke up feel­ing good. i had break­fast and walked around the early morn­ing mar­ket. i bought two longyes and a long sleeved shirt. i had some cof­fee and went to the train sta­tion to inquire about tick­ets. it turns out that i can only by tick­ets one day in advance, so i had to return later.

i bought some razors, soap, sham­poo and organ­ised a ride to amapura (ubein bridge). arriv­ing at amapura i hired a boat, walked across the bridge, checked out the little temple on the other side, and hit the water to get my sun­set shots. the sun­set was awe­some and i got a bundle of good photos.

after dusk i returned to the banks of the lake and bought a tshirt. i also dis­covered that my driver was drunk and didn’t want to return to man­dalay. i paid him less than agreed, but still enough to keep him sat­is­fied. i got on a horse cart to the main road and rode in a pick up truck to town. it was a long ride and i was a little annoyed at my driver. but i wasn’t too bothered, and return­ing to town i had a beer with din­ner, then went to bed.


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